Journey Along the Marañon River: An Adventure to Remember

The journey along the Marañon River has come to an end. We reached our destination – Puerto Malleta, and later Jaén, the first major city on our route. My mind is overflowing with impressions that will take time to settle. Almost two weeks on the river, in conditions that are certainly not for everyone. Sleeping under the stars, makeshift meals, scorching heat, and limited hygiene – it all requires a mental shift. You need to adapt to a slower, more relaxed pace of life where improvisation becomes the norm. Once you manage that, frustration disappears, and every moment becomes pure joy.

Our adventure began with a night bus ride from Trujillo on the coast to Chagual, a small town where we entered the river. We travelled in an uncomfortable bus through Andean passes at 4,300 meters above sea level, on winding roads full of potholes and “sleeping policemen”. Exhausted and sleep-deprived, the 11 of us “Gringos” and 5 Chileans inflated the rafts, packed our gear and set off down the Marañon River. The first day was a real baptism by fire – the river had a high water level, and massive waves and “holes” caused one of the cargo rafts to flip. We lost some gear, broke a paddle, and faced some dangerous moments, but in the end, we were incredibly lucky that no one was seriously hurt and that we could continue.

As time went on, the water level dropped, and we settled into a routine. Some days were spent paddling through calm, almost dull stretches of water, while others were filled with the thrill of navigating rapids. On one occasion, we even had to carry the rafts, crates, and bags overland because the passage was too narrow and risky. Our daily routes ranged from 6.5 to an impressive 55 kilometers. The Marañon River Canyon offers breathtaking scenery – mountains, cacti, palm trees, and endless sandy beaches. However, the wind was often relentless, blowing sand into our food, water, and tents.

Villages and People: Unforgettable Encounters

One of the highlights of this expedition was visiting remote villages. Tupén Grande, in particular, left a lasting impression. This village successfully fought against the construction of a dam that would have submerged much of the river. We spent an entire day there, receiving a warm and heartfelt welcome. Smiling from ear to ear, we danced with children at the school, swam with them in natural “pools” in the stream, and in the evening, watched traditional Peruvian dances with the entire village gathered in the main square. Our teammate Basti from Chile, who spends half the year living in Croatia, celebrated his birthday there, complete with a dinner of duck, rice, and yuca.

Challenges and Joys on the Marañon River

Throughout the journey, despite the sun, heat, dehydration, and a few cases of stomach trouble, no one fell seriously ill. The adventure was physically demanding, but the team was harmonious. Everyone pitched in – cooking, packing, filtering water, hauling gear, and paddling. Besides enjoying the starry sky each night, I often thought about how this is one of those experiences that words can hardly describe – you just have to live it.

Now I’m in Trujillo, taking a well-deserved day off in Huanchaco, but the adventure isn’t over. Next, I’m heading into the mountains, over 3,000 meters above sea level. It’ll be a complete contrast after two weeks of floating in 35-degree heat. I can’t even imagine how it’ll feel to hike again at those altitudes and in the cold.

One thing is certain – this journey will stay with me for the rest of my life. And one winter’s day, with a pile of photos, I’ll share the whole story. Maybe I’ll even manage to put together a proper travel journal.

-Beata Glinska